A great restaurant is about a complete vision (which translates to great design)

November 29, 2007

It’s hard to impress designers sometimes…we have this automatic critique mechanism that goes into effect upon entering any new experience. And there’s nothing easier to critique than a restaurant. In fact, I’m writing this entry because I realized a coupla weeks ago after dropping over $150 (a lot for a couple dining in li’l ol’ Raleigh) that I have very strong opinions about the definition of a great restaurant and great restaurant design.

I’m not gonna trash where I ate. It was nice. The service was fine (except for the host…she needs some lessons in hospitality). The restaurant was attractive. The food was good. blah blah blah. It was blah.

I want to mention 2 places specifically as my examples of great restaurants - ones I will return to again and again: Mo’s Diner in Raleigh, NC, (here’s a Mo’s review) and Navarre in Portland, OR. I think the reason I love these restaurants is that the intent of each is very clear, and every element of the restaurant reinforces that intent, thus creating a wonderful experience for the patron (me!).

image of Navarre in Portland, Oregon.

I’m not necessarily talking about chichi interior design, choosing Philippe Starck or using all the latest Maharam textiles. I’m not necessarily talking about a chef with a “name” or food piled high for a “Gourmet Magazine” shoot. I’m talking about the experience.

Navarre and Mo’s Diner are very different from each other, but they both give a feeling of the proprietor’s vision. The dining rooms are comfortable, unique and unpretentious while still feeling nice enough for date night. Both places are small, so they are naturally more intimate than a large dining room. Each atmosphere fits so nicely with the style of the food and service that it just becomes a part of the enjoyment of the tastes and conversations. Everything down to the graphic design of the menus reflects the vision.

In a great restaurant, the service is impeccable, yet within it’s own style. Mo’s Diner has a semi-formal white table cloth service. The waiters are obviously experienced, and are amazingly unobtrusive. Navarre’s service is a bit more casual, with a tapas or family style approach to plating the food. The staff in either is knowledgeable about everything on the menu - like they really know about it - they have eaten it, seen it prepared and heard how excited the chef is about it…much much more than memorizing the specials and name-dropping a few trendy ingredients.

image of Mo’s Diner in Raleigh, NC

The food is fantastic, and the selection of plates is obviously taken seriously. The menu items change by the season or even the week. They are small menus showcasing what the chef is excited about, as well as what local flavors they have been able to get their hands on. In fact, these 2 restaurants take on a social responsibility involving the food they serve, knowing where the farms are, how the produce or animals are treated and how fresh the food is by the time it reaches their restaurant.

Have you ever gone to dinner at the home of a very good cook? And as they bring plates out you can see their passion for what they just created? You can see their anticipation while watching you take the first bite. They want you to love it. That’s what going to a great restaurant feels like. That is what Navarre and Mo’s Diner feel like.

All in all, the more authentic, understandable and whole the vision is, the more appealing the experience is. People can feel the soul to the place - from the atmosphere, to the staff to the food. And the ones that love it will return again and again. Restaurants that hide their lack of passion and vision by resorting only to fancy interior design tricks, exotic ingredients, and a corporate approach to service will be the hottest thing out there for a few months, but the lack of heart will ultimately leave people hungry for more.

Stumble it!

Tags: , food and drink, interior design, Mo's Diner, Navarre, nightlife, Portland